The Villa O'Higgins – El Chaltén crossing
Hi, I'm Javi, part of the ridingSURí team, and I want to tell you about one of the most incredible experiences you can have in Patagonia: the binational crossing between Villa O'Higgins and El Chaltén via Paso Dos Lagunas.
This crossing is much more than a border between Chile and Argentina: it's a journey of extreme landscapes, remote roads and real people. In March 2018 my son Ignacio and I rode in here for the first time, not knowing that trip was going to change our lives.
On this crossing we discovered a one-of-a-kind territory, its purity, its people and its energy. We fell in love with the place, and that's how SURí was born, a life project that keeps us in this captivating corner at the end of the world.
I can promise you: making this crossing was one of the purest, most remote and most transformative experiences I've had in Patagonia. So much so that our life changed completely after that first trip. And here we are, with another life project, writing a little about it.
The journey starts in Villa O'Higgins: the boat from Puerto Bahamondes to Candelario Mancilla
The Villa O'Higgins – El Chaltén crossing starts at Puerto Bahamondes, where the famous Carretera Austral ends (or begins). There, 7.9 km south of Villa O'Higgins, the Ruedas de la Patagonia boats are waiting for us. They cross the binational O'Higgins–San Martín lake, one of the largest and deepest in all of the Americas.
It's about 1 h 45 min on the water. Sometimes it's a bit rough, but definitely exciting! You'll see the geographic contrasts of its shores and the color of its water. Because of its glacial origin it's a hypnotic turquoise that changes with the light and the wind.
A tip that can save your crossing: get to the dock at least 45 minutes before departure. Before every sailing the Maritime Authority inspects the boat, and anyone who arrives at the last minute can be left on shore. If you're on a bike, show up with it without the panniers: the bike goes outside and the panniers are stowed inside, dry.
Candelario Mancilla: where time stands still
On reaching the other side of the lake, we land at Candelario Mancilla, "a place in the world, if ever there was one, for me". Its views, its microclimate and its rich history make it a very special corner of Chilean Patagonia, one you have to see.
It's a small, quiet place full of history. It's much more than a geographic link: it's the point that joins Villa O'Higgins with El Chaltén, and the start of the overland journey via Paso Dos Lagunas.
The Mancilla Levicán family has lived here for generations. Doña Justa, daughter of the pioneer Candelario, is over 100 and still keeps Patagonian hospitality alive. Her sons, Tito and Ricardo, look after the land and their animals with enormous dedication. They offer camping, lodging, home-cooked meals, transport to the pass and horse rides. They're hosts in the purest sense of the word.
From the port, the route to the binational pass starts out surrounded by mountains, forests and glaciers. It's impossible not to stop and look.
Stages of the route: the crossing via Paso Dos Lagunas
The full route is 21.7 km with medium difficulty (grade 3), with some tougher sections (grade 4) because of gradients, mud and water crossings. It's not a route to rush: it's best enjoyed calmly, paying attention to your surroundings.
SURí tips:
- Take good care of nature and enjoy the silence. On this route, less noise and more time are worth gold.
- Find out about the weather and the terrain. Conditions change all the time.
- Stay on the trails and watch for changes in the terrain. Always go carefully so you don't get lost or wander off the route.
- Stay visible and with the group whenever you can.
- Protect yourself and those around you.
Km 0 (252 m a.s.l.) – Puerto Candelario Mancilla
From the port, the road starts toward the Carabineros de Chile border post, where you register your exit from the country.
Km 0.9 – Border post
A small building with incredible views of Lake O'Higgins. On clear days you can see icebergs floating. Here you show your ID and the PDI safe-conduct permit (I explain how to get it further down).
From here a gentle climb begins, on a gravel road with almost no traffic. In the whole season only a handful of vehicles come through. And if you're on an e-Bike, you enjoy the climbs without suffering 😉
Km 5.6 (620 m a.s.l.)
The ground flattens out a little and, if visibility is good, the outline of Fitz Roy, or Cerro Chaltén (3,405 m), appears to the south, marking the Argentine horizon.
Km 8.45 (522 m a.s.l.)
You cross an uneven stream. Take care fording it and don't get the e-Bikes wet, because the motors can be damaged.
Km 10.8 (603 m a.s.l.)
You cross a wooden bridge and then pass a small airstrip. Follow the most clearly marked track: it's all well signposted.
Km 16.9 (603 m a.s.l.) – Chile–Argentina border
This is where the Chilean part of the road ends. The last 5 km are wilder: dense forest, roots, mud, streams and small log boardwalks. Sometimes you have to get off and push the bike, or even carry it, but all of that is part of the experience.
The sound of the wind in the trees and the silence of the place are hard to forget.
Then Laguna Larga appears and, skirting it, you reach the highest point of the route, where the descent to Lago del Desierto begins. That descent is intense, steep and somewhat technical, but it gives you one of the most beautiful views of the trip: Lago del Desierto, with Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in the background.
Km 21 (507 m a.s.l.) – Gendarmería Argentina
You reach the north end of Lago del Desierto, where the Gendarmería Argentina checkpoint is. This is where the crossing officially ends.
From here you can take the boat to the south end of the lake. The trip takes 45 minutes. In the 2025-26 season it ran every day except Wednesdays, Christmas and New Year's, until April 15:
- Schedule: 10:00 and 16:00, in both directions.
- Price: $40,000 per person + $20,000 per bicycle.
They're set by the operator, not by us: confirm them before you travel.
Once you land at the south end, 37 km of gravel separate you from El Chaltén, Argentina's national trekking capital. You can ride them carefully, as there's quite a lot of vehicle traffic (it's a beautiful stretch, with views of Fitz Roy and Los Glaciares National Park), or take one of the minibuses timed to meet the boat.
Tips for bike tourers and hikers
The PDI safe-conduct permit: without it, you don't cross
To leave Chile via Paso Dos Lagunas (Hito IV-0-B), a safe-conduct permit from the Policía de Investigaciones (PDI) is mandatory. It's required because there's no PDI at this pass: the exit control is done by Carabineros, and the safe-conduct certifies that you have no impediment or travel ban preventing you from leaving the country.
- It's free and you get it entirely online: pdichile.cl → Trámites Online → Salvoconducto.
- You need: a valid ID card or passport in good condition, no travel ban or court order preventing you from leaving, and an active email address, where the document is sent.
- When: between 24 and 48 hours before you show up at the border, with the exact date of your exit, which is written on the document.
- Save it on your phone and, if you can, print it. There's no signal in Candelario Mancilla.
- If the weather moves the boat, your safe-conduct may end up with a different date. Let Ruedas know and they'll tell you how to sort it out.
The full step by step is in the guide by our friends at Ruedas: Safe-conduct permit to cross into Argentina from Villa O'Higgins.
Health insurance to enter Argentina
Since July 2025, Argentina has required foreign tourists to have health insurance to enter the country (Decree 366/2025). Buy it before your trip and keep it handy.
Boat tickets
- Lake O'Higgins: with Ruedas de la Patagonia. When you book they ask for your full name, RUT or passport, nationality, age and contact details: the Maritime Authority requires it. If you're bringing a bike, say so when you book: it's included, but space is limited.
- Lago del Desierto: with its operator. Ruedas can also sell you that ticket.
"Leave No Trace" principles
Help us look after this place by following them.
Boat schedules and tickets
We recommend confirming the boat schedules and the weather well in advance. In this area, leave at least one day of margin for possible weather changes. Remember that departures depend on the weather: travel with patience and flexibility.
Villa O'Higgins (Puerto Bahamondes) – Candelario Mancilla · departs 07:30
| 2026-27 season | Days |
|---|---|
| November and December | Mondays and Thursdays |
| January and February | Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays |
| March (until the 30th) | Mondays and Thursdays |
Candelario Mancilla – Villa O'Higgins: 17:00, the same days.
In the 2026-27 season, the Lake O'Higgins boat runs from November 1 to March 30. Ruedas has a free minibus from its office in Villa O'Higgins to the dock, leaving one hour before departure.
This season's schedules and prices: the Ruedas de la Patagonia crossing guide.
If the lake won't let the boat out
It happens sometimes: Lake O'Higgins gets strong winds and there are days when it isn't safe to sail. Then the date moves and you wait in Villa O'Higgins or Candelario Mancilla until the next sailing. So don't book a flight out of El Calafate for the day after the crossing: always leave about 3 days of margin. And if you cross on time, you'll have more days to live and remember your trip through these far corners of Patagonia ;-)
Recommendations
Look after nature: it's very fragile here.
- Always take your trash with you. There's no way to handle waste in the area.
- Please don't light fires or camp between the border posts: it's a very fragile place.
- Check the weather and the wind: in Patagonia, both are in charge.
- Bring cash: there are no ATMs and no signal on much of the route.
- Estimated times: one full day of travel between Villa O'Higgins and El Chaltén if you go fast. We recommend doing it in two and staying in Candelario Mancilla, to get to know it better and enjoy it without hurrying.
Quick questions
How long does the crossing from Villa O'Higgins to El Chaltén take?
One long day if everything lines up; we recommend two, with a night in Candelario Mancilla.
How many kilometers is it?
- 7.9 km from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes.
- The boat across Lake O'Higgins.
- 21.7 km from Candelario Mancilla to the north end of Lago del Desierto.
- The boat across Lago del Desierto.
- 37 km of gravel to El Chaltén.
Can you cross by car or motorbike?
No. It's a crossing on foot, by bike or on horseback, with two boat trips.
What documents do I need?
- ID card or passport.
- The PDI safe-conduct permit (free, online).
- The health insurance Argentina requires.
In which months can you cross?
From November 1 to March 30, which is when the Lake O'Higgins boat runs (2026-27 season).
Can I do it by e-Bike if I don't have a bike?
Yes. At ridingSURí we rent e-Bikes in Villa O'Higgins for the Chilean stretch up to the border marker.
Shall we cross together?
If you'd rather make it one trip instead of five sets of paperwork, we put it together with Ruedas de la Patagonia: the e-Bikes, the boats, the night in Candelario Mancilla and the plan for when the lake says no.
→ The crossing by bike, at ridingSURí
→ The full crossing, with everything sorted, at suripatagonia.com
Sources:
- Km and elevations: ridingSURí's own measurements.
- Lake O'Higgins boat: Ruedas de la Patagonia, 2026-27 season.
- Safe-conduct: PDI Chile.
- Insurance: Decree 366/2025, Argentine Republic.
- Lago del Desierto: 2025-26 season data.
- Checked on 10/16/2026.